Sunday, September 5, 2010

Balsamic Vinegar

I love this stuff. Balsamic Vinegar has been around for centuries in Italy, but from what I understand it's only recently become popular over here in the U.S. There exist basically two types: Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, either di Modena or di Reggio Emilia, depending on the region, and the more commonly known Aceto Balsamico di Modena, also known as condimento balsamico. Tradizionale is regulated by Italy's Denominazione di Origine Protetta and the European Union's Protected Designation of Origin. It's along the same lines as Champagne, which can only technically be Champagne if it's from the Champagne region of France. Anyway, Tradizionale is always made from grapes mashed into a syrup called motto costo, which is aged at least 12 years in various wooden casks. It's the aging process that removes the moisture and makes it thicker while concentrating the flavor. Don't forget about the bonus flavor from the wood used, too. Delicious and complex, right? Well now that I've got you all excited about the good stuff, let's talk about what most of us use: the much more widely available condimento balsamico. It's an imitation of Tradizionale, and because there's no regulation, it doesn't have to be aged the minimum of 12 years that Tradizionale does. Some types aren't even aged at all, with much of their flavor and color added artificially. Many condimento balsamico vinegars that you'll find will be somewhere in between; usually a little aged, but often still with some additives. The upside to the condimento varieties, of course, is quick production and low cost. The way I see it, a good condimento is perfect for use in dips and dressings, whereas Tradizionale commands a little more reverence and ought to be enjoyed un-mixed, on some hard cheese or a spoon or something.

Don't judge, I didn't have any hard cheese. And guess how much I paid for that spoon? $0.00. Thanks, Grandma!

Any relatively inexpensive option easily found in the grocery store is what I will usually use for my salad dressing. It still has a concentrated flavor, and the balance of sweetness and acidity combines well with the other flavors in the vinaigrette.

This was a healthy amount under $10

My roommate, Kevin, and I recently made a trip to the expensive-ass Cherry Creek Mall (the one with a Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom AND Saks Fifth Avenue) where he picked up a $35 bottle of Oliviers & Co. Vinaigre Balsamique de Modene.

It's still Italian, just distributed by a French company

While it's not technically Tradizionale, it was still aged by the same methods (although the actual number of years is undisclosed...on the bottle at least). It has a much thicker consistency than the cheaper versions, without the additional color additive. It has a beautiful flavor balance and you can definitely tell that a little goes a long way. Kevin made a cedar plank salmon that was pretty much amazing with a little drizzle of this flavor enhancer. Oliviers & Co. also has flavored varieties, including fig and cherry. The cherry was a little polarizing, because whereas I loved its complex combination of sweet and sour, Kevin and the store lady made faces at it. Anyway, point is, there is enough balsamic vinegar variety out there that experimentation is all too possible, and who doesn't love that?

What I think it all comes down to is that there's no real need to worry about whether or not you should buy Tradizionale. It's nice to know it exists, but most people aren't willing to hack up the cash for it, especially when condimento varieties are available; and in my personal, humble, culinary, cost-effective opinion, $8-25 per bottle is an acceptable amount for varieties common in everyday use. Like everything else related to food, it just depends on personal preference. Since I'm broke, I think I'm lucky to have balsamic vinegar at all...so hooray.

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